E.J. Jewelry

Renascent - Senior BFA Thesis

The imagery surrounding aquatic life offers an expansive aesthetic that drives a deep captivation with an unfamiliar, underwater world. Through a fascination with different oceanic forms, the barnacle became an object of intrigue. It cements itself to various flat surfaces in the water and forms a permanent protective, crustaceous armor. Their jagged and rough quality provides exceptional contrast against the smoothness of the body.

Inspired initially by medieval armor, this collection offers comparisons to chainmail and pauldrons, to the gorget and the visor of a helmet; as the work evolved it became evident that it belonged in the realm of the couture. The hard, yet fluid, patterns often created in the design of plate and chainmail offer a visual dichotomy that lends itself to the ecology of the barnacle. The narrative of protection becomes highlighted in this small crustaceans’ existence, as its shell becomes not only its means of grounding but also its sole method of preservation. Yet, within this safe haven they sacrifice their ability to move and to exist outside their chosen point. The weight of their exterior burdens them heavily just as the plates and chains impede the movement of the human form.

Couture fashion embraces the daring and spectacular, creating intricate looks that maintain an elevated attention to detail not found in the casual market. Translating this through the barnacles, drama is accentuated with the careful execution in the facial accessories, shoulder embellishments, and thick choker. The history of medieval armory and the reverence that shell jewelry once held become affixed to current, high-fashion, influence, calling for a revival of marine forms of jewelry from the devalued status that so often constrains it to its lower art form.